Tuesday, May 13, 2008
breath >> pointless & elegant
the new book 'breath' by tim winton, caught my attention not just because it is about surfing. but for this quote taken from the book. "How strange it was to see men do something beautiful, something pointless and elegant, as though nobody saw or cared." I love the idea that surfing is pointless because looked at simply, it is. as far a elegant many surfers I have watched and surfed with over the years, are that for sure. I am also taken but the idea that for most surfers what they do goes largely unseen.