really windy~ a long wave period (the gap between waves) ~ the promised huge waves didn't arrive on our coast today. by the sound from the bay tonight (Saturday) it has got bigger so we will be out hunting for the big ones tomorrow (Sunday) just to watch. an obsession with surfing and following the weather is something that creeps up on you. I didn't realise I was quite so driven to get to the ocean if things were going on. So many weekends, holidays, places to live, even friendships, have been made, changed even lost because of surfing and waves or worst still the lack of waves. it's just a shame that the back/shoulder problems I have at the moment are stopping me from getting in the water as often as I should. having said that I would probably give it a go if conditions were right. maybe not tomorrow as it looks likely to be huge. the surf forecast and the computer driven wave height charts are predicting some big stuff. north coast getting it full on but the south coast may well get a better a shape and still be big. I will be sure to tell you tomorrow.ob·ses·sion (n)
1. Compulsive preoccupation with a fixed idea or an unwanted feeling or emotion, often accompanied by symptoms of anxiety.
2. A compulsive, often unreasonable idea or emotion.
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