the picture below was taken this time last year by moby it is of south fistral, newquay cornwall. for me is is very close to the perfect wave except for one thing the wave is a right.
now that might sound strange to those of you who don't surf but clean waves don't section (fold over in one go) they peel. when the wave peels it breaks from left to right or right to left.
so that will mean a right breaks from left to right if you are surfing the wave, and a left breaks from right to left if you are surfing it.
surfers come in two types (in general) a natural footer stands with their left foot forward, and usually like surfing rights whereas a goofy footer stands with his right foot forward and usually like surfing lefts.
normally there is a direct correlation between being
left or right handed and being a natural footer (right handed) and goofy footer (left handed). of course there will always be exceptions.
again I also prefer surfing lefts, but I am right handed!
well I am now, as a child I was one of those who was actively encouraged to write with my right hand and I was shouted at by teachers constantly told not be 'cack handed' so I practiced and practiced eventually making my self very able to write with at first either hand and then a bit later better with my write hand. the unfortunately side effect it gave me I think was that I developed a bad stammer, through primary school I would be so keen to express my knowledge I would often stand up and say, I,I,I,I,I,I,I, it's 25 sir. to much amusement from the class.
of course that is not how you would wish to be at school but I was lucky I never got really upset by it and by the age of 16 I had pretty much learnt (with help) to slow down and speak clearly though even now I still stammer on rare occasions, but I don't see it as a major problem.
if any thing being forced to write with my right hand gave be an advantage I think, as when ever I tried a new sport or activity I could use either hand, then decide which I would prefer to use. so now I play cricket left handed, baseball either, football either, rugby either, surfing I favour lefts but can surf either, I wont go on!
I will come back to this subject another day 'as usual I am going on too long'.
I even got a lovely email yesterday from the editor of the magazine I write about surfing for. apologising as with all the summer events to be listed they would be needling more space so could I limit my piece to between 1000-1500 words. I wonder if that would have happened if I had been allowed to write left handed.