swell is predicted using advanced computer models based on the wave/weather buoys anchored offshore. it makes a fantastic image regardless of the real function of the chart.
whatever actually happens this weekend (I think is will be a couple of very stormy wet blown-out days in all but the very sheltered spots, where it could be special) the better forecast sites like magic seaweed have been creating a feel good factor amongst the surf addicted students and staff and population in the area I live. it seems that it is all people are talking about.
